Best River of No Reprieve: Descending Siberia's Waterway of Exile, Death, and Destiny By Jeffrey Tayler
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Ebook About The author of In Putin’s Footsteps chronicles a deadly trek through the icy Russian region known for gulags and isolation.In a custom-built boat, Jeffrey Tayler travels some 2,400 miles down the Lena River from near Lake Baikal to high above the Arctic Circle, recreating a journey first made by Cossack forces more than three hundred years ago. He is searching for primeval beauty and a respite from the corruption, violence, and self-destructive urges that typify modern Russian culture, but instead he finds the roots of that culture—in Cossack villages unchanged for centuries, in Soviet outposts full of listless drunks, in stark ruins of the gulag, and in grand forests hundreds of miles from the nearest hamlet.That’s how far Tayler is from help when he realizes that his guide, Vadim, a burly Soviet army veteran embittered by his experiences in Afghanistan, detests all humanity, including Tayler. Yet he needs Vadim’s superb skills if he is to survive a voyage that quickly turns hellish. They must navigate roiling whitewater in howling storms, eschewing life jackets because, as Vadim explains, the frigid water would kill them before they could swim to shore. Though Tayler has trekked by camel through the Sahara and canoed down the Congo during the revolt against Mobutu, he has never felt so threatened as he does now.Praise for River of No Reprieve“This is a fiercely evocative account of an astonishing journey, wrenched out of near-disaster.” —Colin Thubron, author of In Siberia and The Lost Heart of Asia“Nonfiction adventure at its best. A page-turner from cover to cover.” —Adventure Journey“Reads like a Dantean tour of purgatory, providing a gloomily beautiful glimpse of nature—and humanity—at its bleakest edges.” —Men’s JournalBook River of No Reprieve: Descending Siberia's Waterway of Exile, Death, and Destiny Review :
Thanks to a fellow Amazon reviewer, I was introduced to the works of Jeffrey Tayler, first reading his excellent account of a journey across the Sahel portion of Africa, through some of the world's poorest countries. Today a prudent person - yes, even Jeffrey Tayler - would not undertake that journey, due to the dangers involved from religious fundamentalists who are willing to see a "soft target" in the personage of a lone, foreign, inquisitive traveler. That account is suitably titled Angry Wind: Through Muslim Black Africa by Truck, Bus, Boat, and Camel . I checked Tayler's other works, and knew this would be the next. I was immediately reminded of Eric Sevareid, the TV news commentator's account of his canoe trip from Minneapolis to York Factory, Hudson Bay, in part, down "God's River," during the Great Depression, which is entitled Canoeing with the Cree . Severeid had just graduated from high school, 18 at the time; Tayler was (hopefully) at mid-life, 43.The Lena River is in Siberia, with its headwaters near Lake Baikal, and it flows north, to the Arctic Ocean. Tayler travelled almost all of it, some 2,400 miles, from Ust Kut to Tiksi on the Laptev Sea, a portion of the Arctic Ocean. Naturally his journey was in the summer, or what passes for it in the Arctic region, and on occasions it was hot, with temperatures above 90 F. Though contacts, Tayler made arrangements for Vadim to be his guide. Vadim is the Russian equivalent of a "troubled-Vietnam-War-veteran," with his "Vietnam" being, of course, Afghanistan. He has turned his back on the so-called civilized world, and seeks solace in the natural world, the more rugged and isolated, the better. He, too, was very cynical when it came to the military's efforts to give him "medals." There are frictions between the two, as would be expected on such a journey, but somehow I thought Tayler underestimated how very lucky he was to have Vadim as his guide.Certainly for me, and I suspect most of us, the Lena River, and its course through the newly-named "Republic of Sakha" is an enormous "blank spot" on my mental geographic map. Tayler did a superlative job of filling in the blanks, starting with an appropriate epigram from Leo Tolstoy: "The Cossacks created Russia." They were the ones who helped fulfill the role of providing a Russian version of "Manifest Destiny" by initially settling these remote and harsh regions, subduing the indigenous people. Subsequently, Siberia was a place of exile, as well as forced labor, and all sorts of people washed up on the banks of the Lena, from Polish nobility, to German residents of the Soviet Union, who accepted the invitation of Catherine the Great to those Russians who "crossed" Stalin, not a small number.Along Tayler's trip, whenever they stopped near a village, Vadim seemed to be content to stay with the boat, and enjoy the solitude. Tayler would explore the village, sometimes utilizing advanced contacts. His experiences overall were flat dreary or worse. Alcoholism dominated the entire river, with few exceptions, leading to a declining population. "Nothing to do" for the youths, except to find "refuge" in the bottle. Despite America's own bad experience, it was enough to make you re-think Prohibition. Some villages had been completely abandoned. Tayler has an "eye" for the ethnographic, noting how the Russians, and other European exiles, like the Germans interacted with the Yakuts, who themselves had pushed out of the way earlier inhabitants, like the Evenk. Tayler finds a maddening fatalism among the people along the river. Clearly, the "magic of the market place" did not bring a better world after the collapse of the Soviet Union, and he encounters a fair amount of nostalgia for that earlier era. In one summation, Tayler says: "The very faith the Soviets had tried to extirpate had induced in him a docility that had him praying for his tormentors souls. I sat back, frustrated, beyond pity." In contrast, very occasionally, he experiences "pride," and he italicizes it, for example in the Evenk village of Sikhyakh, high above the Arctic Circle.Tayler claims that shaman religious practices originated in the "pillars" north of Yakutsk. And there are many other interesting nuggets of information that he provides from this blank spot on the map. One that would keep me away: of the natural annoyances, he places the infamous arctic mosquitoes in third place (!) behind the midges and the horseflies.Tayler is married to a Russian, and is fluent in the language, which provides much additional insight. His account is richly informative, and very well-written. Most likely, I'll see what he has to say about the Congo. For this account, 5-stars, plus. Tayler is an insipidly vapid writer (not just here, but in all of his books). River of no Reprieve, though in some ways an improvement over some of his earlier works, still reads like it was written by a smarmy sophomore-year frat boy with a fondness for his thesaurus. The landscape prose is repetitive and as purple as you'll ever read, the characters Tayler constructs are two dimensional stereotypes, the dialogue is contrived and clumsy, and Tayler himself--as always--is both self-absorbed and lacking in self-awareness. I would rather boat the Lena in August in a leaky canoe than re-read this drivel. 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